
The sun hadn't risen yet this morning. It is dark outside. Below the hostel room, I see the old tilt-n-whirl. Its light dimmed after all the excitement from yesterday. My traveling companion, Adam, is in the bathroom washing up. Our other hostel roommates must have stayed out all night as their beds were empty. I trip over my suitcase and curse my drowsiness. Today is the day we are going to the Tsukiji Fish Market and we are already late. I walk slowly down the outside hallway toward the bathroom with toothbrush in tow; my feet cold from the cement. Across the railing are more rooms and below is the small hostel garden. I see Adam walking back from the bathroom and we grunt in greeting.
"We're late", I mumble.
He shrugs.
I brush up in the bathroom. Being in Japan, this bathroom was cleaner than normal. Clean white tiles on the floor. Shower stalls are well ventilated. The mirrors hung on industrial concrete walls. I hurry back to the room to put on my socks and shoes. Adam must be downstairs eating breakfast. I take the elevator down. I stare at the advertisement for a tempura restaurant inside. It has a picture of a bowl of tempura and the word happy amid a bunch of Japanese. I push my index finger against 'happy' hoping today would be just as good as the rest of this trip has been.
The elevator opens up into the lobby and dining area. Adam is chatting up the morning receptionist Yuki. He is leaning in against the counter and smiling awfully wide for this early in the morning.
"Oh, really? Harajuku... Yea I wanted to buy some toys for my brother. He is a huge Gundam fan. Not me though. I just want to eat and soak in hot springs this trip.", says Adam, grinning toothily.
Yuki smiles awkwardly and agrees, "Yes. Harajuku area good for toys and unique items.".
If I didn't know better I'd think he was flirting with the idea of dating a Japanese girlfriend.
"Hey, man. Let's get going.", I say. I smile to Yuki in greeting.
"So.. I'm going to the hot springs town tomorrow. What are you going to do for the next two days?" asks Adam.
"Probably do a day trip to this outdoor hot springs I read about online. Suppose to be pretty good. Other than that, eat my way through Tokyo. More sushi. Although, no more tempura. I don't need to have an elderly waitress giving me scornful looks." I chuckle.
"Hey! She had in for me. I bought the most expensive meal. I should have gotten a geisha serving me!"
"Dude. You paid 30,000 yen not 300,000 yen. Maybe the next trip when you come back as a millionaire." He laughs.
We walk past the adult theater behind the hostel. Being the Asakusa temple area, I found it funny that there were so many vices in this vicinity. Questionable theaters, pachinko parlors, and plenty of bars. At least it's fairly quiet and close to a subway line.
As we get on the subway, Adam turns on his ipod and pushes his cap below his eyes. I reach into my bag and start reading my Lonely Planet: Japan for the hundredth time.
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Upon reaching the stop to reach Tsukiji Fish Market, the sun is already up and out. Adam forges ahead. There are cargo carriers zipping all around the warehouses. The smell of salt is pervasive. It isn't as fishy as I thought. I have my trusty camera in hand, but there hasn't been any fish yet. I reach into my pocket for my cell phone. It's 7am. We missed the auction.
"Hey, try over there. There are some lights over there." I yell to Adam. The noise is like the sound of traffic. Loud.
We pass some stalls selling knives and finally make it to the fish. There was fish everywhere. Small fish, big fish. Fish in tanks, fish on ice. There was even an octopus tank. We see a young Japanese man buying a large fish. The old lady promptly wraps it up for him. After walking past several stalls, I spot a huge tuna being carved up on my right. It's probably as big as my twin bed. It is the first time I saw a fish that big.
"Let's get some sushi. I read that there are good morning sushi stalls around here." I yell. He nods. It's too loud to really hear anything.
We make our way toward the main road and there are stalls with fish displayed proudly and patrons hunched over in enjoyment. We sit down at a stall at the end of the road and order. There is an English menu and I get the uni-tuna set. Adam picks the tuna set. The chef is recommending the fatty tuna set to Adam but Adam isn't really understanding what the chef is saying. Adam just keeps pointing at the tuna breakfast on the menu. The chef resigns himself to defeat and starts making our orders.
I get my uni-tuna set. It is the first time I will eat sushi for breakfast. Good. Very good. Melt in your mouth tuna and perfectly briny uni. A good start to another Japanese morning. I'd say so.